It was during my time at the London College of Fashion, specifically in the MBA module on Supply Chain and Sustainability, that I began to feel the weight of something deeply unsettling in the luxury industry. This was around 2015, a time when the luxury sector was waking up to the possibilities of new digital technologies. Yet, the luxury paradox became undeniable: a promise of authenticity, carefully crafted and shrouded in secrecy. As I delved into my research, I found myself increasingly disturbed by the stark divide between a brand’s narrative and the reality of its operations. The luxury industry, despite its obsession with provenance, seemed to have little actual control over the very materials it touted as symbols of exclusivity. Transparency wasn’t just absent—it was intentionally hidden. And yet, authenticity is the very essence of luxury. If that is compromised, what remains?
In my case study, I examined two icons of the industry: Loro Piana and Hermès. One represented quiet mastery—an obsession with raw material excellence, safeguarded by a vertically integrated supply chain. The other, despite its aura of impenetrable exclusivity, found itself caught in a public reckoning. The infamous PETA exposé of 2015 unearthed supply chain breaches that called the brand’s ethics into question—raising doubts not just about the treatment of exotic skins, but about whether luxury consumers were being sold an illusion. And then there were the "real" Birkins—bags so indistinguishable from the originals that were being manufactured inside Hermès itself. A staggering failure of control, for a brand built on scarcity, whilst back then it seems was undone by its own opacity.
Through my research, I realised that while we in the luxury industry pride ourselves on provenance and authenticity, we have intentionally hidden the artisanal heritage of our supply chains to – maintain “secrecy” of the luxury dream. My research highlighted the downstream supply chain was not just a linear process it was a treasure chest of unused data insights waiting to be unlocked. When harnessed correctly, this data could be used as valuable tools to enhance a brand’s authenticity and transparency, the very foundations of its value proposition. The insight would culminate in my academic paper at the LCF/Supplychain and Sustainability MBA Module one and aptly titled “ Should Luxury Brands enable new technologies downstream in their supply chain to connect with the zeitgeist of today “ The paper explored the storytelling behind Loro Piana’s commitment to sustainability and raw material excellence. I was enthralled by how organic and seamless Pier Luigi’s collaborations with local artisans were in involving them in the brand’s eco-system, whether this was securing rare materials from across the globe—or the vicuña wool from the highlands of Peru or the silk thread from Myanmar’s Lake Inle—it felt like a masterful blend of tradition and craftsmanship. Everything about their approach was seamless, fluid rooted in a philosophy of integrating heritage into the brand's DNA, while telling the stories of the people and practices behind these rare materials.
That was a pivotal moment of clarity. I realized that the luxury supply chain could no longer be viewed as a linear system but as a living, breathing ecosystem—one where every interaction, every touchpoint, could tell a story of authenticity and craftsmanship. The goal for me was to find a way of how to integrate these CSR practices into a holistic, functional eco-system that was powered by new technologies – where every single touchpoint through the product lifecycle journey was adding meaning. It was evident back then that the key to this was - TRACEABILITY, and the potential of true transparency—could redefine what luxury means in the 21st century.
This became my blueprint for the relaunch of MULDOONEYS. I wanted to build a new luxury paradigm blending heritage with cutting-edge technology while maintaining a transparent, traceable, and sustainable supply chain that was not only forward-thinking but also rooted in authenticity, craftsmanship, and being more accountable without compromising on legacy.
In 2022, we relaunched choosing to work with French savoir-faire, and heritage artisans who are the masters in leather goods making. The mandate being that for us to have a Made in Paris, France label – we must for at least 100% have all raw materials sourced in France, from EPV celebrated suppliers. For our Meenakshi series eleven of our thirteen elements used to make her are produced in France. For the technology aspect we introduced firstly a layer one blockchain and hologram solution. This innovation paired physical creations with digital twins, minted as NFTs, to ensure traceability and authenticity. Building on this momentum, in 2023 saw the launch of our prêt-à-porter leather goods line, which incorporates a layer two blockchain and hologram solution, with the Provenance Time Capsule, to further preserve authenticity and celebrate craftsmanship.
At MULDOONEYS, we’ve developed a multi-layered approach that integrates blockchain, IoT, and Distributed Ledger Technology (DLT) to bring a new level of transparent, immutable authentication to the luxury sector.
The Provenance Time Capsule (PTC) is designed to anchor product provenance in blockchain smart contracts while preserving the cultural and artisanal heritage behind each piece.
By integrating blockchain and hologram verification, we’re not just protecting our brand—but the aim is to reshape the consumer-luxury relationship with enhanced transparency and trust through immutable records of product origins, strengthening buyer confidence.
Our approach at MULDOONEYS isn't just about tracking materials—for us it’s about defining the next era of luxury. By embedding authenticity at the core of our supply chain, we’re proving that the future of luxury isn’t about secrecy—it’s about transparency and authenticity.
Implementing traceability within luxury fashion is no small feat, as ours is an industry of contradictions. The challenge, I find is a deeply ingrained resistance to change—which is a paradoxical pull between maintaining the “secrecy” of storied legacy of craftsmanship and the need for cutting-edge technologies needed to keep us relevant to the changing needs of a new type of consumer.
I’ve found that while many of the artisans we work with are wholeheartedly excited by the idea of full transparency, it’s often the wider luxury industry that remains hesitant, as the idea of transparency upends the very notion of what luxury has traditionally represented. It’s a shift from the opulent dream, the mystery of heritage to now having to bare the every step a product takes in the supply chain. This requires more than just understanding how new technologies can be integrated—it demands a more fundamental shift in mindset. And this takes time, vision, and a deep commitment to keep building on this blueprint, with clear communication on the value that traceability brings—not just for us, but for the entire ecosystem.
Then there’s the matter of scale. The big player luxury brand’s supply chain is often vast and complex, with hundreds of layers of suppliers, each contributing to a single product. This web of connections makes it difficult to achieve seamless traceability, especially when considering the variety of data sources and types. The risk is that data can get fragmented or misinterpreted. But here, too, the solution lies in fostering deeper collaboration. When suppliers see the tangible benefits of transparent practices, the system starts to flow more smoothly.
Adoption of blockchain technology is another hurdle. Implementing blockchain across an entire supply chain requires buy-in from every player involved, which, in the luxury sector, is a challenge. The industry is used to working in silos, often keeping supplier relationships private. But with the stakes as high as they are—safeguarding authenticity, ensuring ethical sourcing, and preserving heritage—this is a conversation that can no longer be avoided.
In essence, our product strategy at MULDOONEYS is focused on limited edition collections, and volumes that are sustainable which enables us to implement traceability in the PLM. In this way we hope to shift the entire dialogue proving that luxury can be both timeless and transparent, whilst rooted in heritage and driven by innovation.
When it comes to engaging with our customers, we want them to feel like they’re part of the story—not just buying a product. For our limited editions, it’s a very personal experience. When customers pre-order, they get direct, one-on-one access to learn all about how their bag is made—right in real time. It’s like pulling back the curtain and showing them the artistry, the techniques, and the people behind every piece. They’re not just buying a bag, they’re learning the entire journey it’s been on, from raw material to finished product.
For our prêt-à-porter collections, we do something similar with our “Provenance Time Capsule” - a blockchain vault that holds everything about the artisans, the materials, and the craftsmanship that went into their bag. It’s all about telling the story of the 700-year-old heritage that powers our supply chain, in a way that’s completely transparent and easy to understand. Once customers register their purchase, they receive their own personalized, digital certificate of authenticity—stored securely on the Polygon blockchain. This time capsule is their lasting link to the craftsmanship and heritage they’ve invested in.
I bootstrapped this relaunch eighteen plus months ago, making sure the critical foundation of building this ethical tech luxury supply chain, the first collection and the tech stack were first in place. Now, as we move into the next phase with marketing, the focus will be on building meaningful connections with our customers through storytelling. It’s about making them feel part of the bigger picture and understanding the true value of what they’re buying—ethically sourced, expertly crafted, and with a deep commitment to sustainability.
Research shows that consumers today want to know more than just what’s a brand's heritage—they want to understand the story behind the products they buy. And the more we share, the more we build trust and loyalty.
When I first conceptualized this innovation back in 2015, it was driven by a desire to create something that had real meaning. I wanted every single actor in the supply chain and product lifecycle to have a voice—to tell their story. By making everything transparent and traceable, and in so doing we can communicate the true authenticity of our brand from start to finish. I truly believe we’ve already made a significant impact on our industry – showing how our solution can work, what with the new EU mandate on Digital Product Passports. And wherever I am asked to present our business case or tell our story – I never hesitate. In fact last year I had the opportunity to present a working white paper / use case to the ISO contributing to TC307 / ISO AWI 24878, showcasing new and emerging use cases for blockchain and DLT in luxury supply chains, which sets out to present a set of real-world examples of innovative commercial practices with blockchain and holograms in the luxury industry.
At the heart of all this is the confidence we’re giving to today’s luxury consumer—one who is more demanding, more discerning, and more aware than ever before. As you have seen, for us traceability, transparency, and sustainability the very backbone of our product lifecycle. They connect, preserve, and trace the heritage of every actor in the process, all in a single, time-looped solution on the blockchain.
Looking ahead, I see continued evolution in supply chain transformation. While we’re not a full stack technology company, there are a few more innovations we’re working on that will build upon the supply chain solutions we’ve already put in place.
As I see it, the future of luxury lies in its authenticity—and this is the path I’ve committed to walking. As the philosopher Aristotle said, “The ultimate value of life depends upon awareness and the power of contemplation rather than upon mere survival.” And in our industry, that awareness and contemplation are key to reshaping a more transparent, sustainable future for fashion.
Marlene P. Naicker, Founder, CEO and Creative Director at MULDOONEYS
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